Search results

How do all the dash symptoms happen as soon as I switch on the 2-3 solenoid? I see the ECM calling for 2nd gear on my scanner and everything is working when I'm in 2nd, as soon as I hit the 2-3 switch speedo & tach go to zero, check gauges on, gear indicator off. That's when it's not shifting...

I did that it was 12V, that doesn't rule out intermittent though. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

My truck intermittently started having erratic speedometer behavior, a flickering check gauges light, no gear selection light, and occasionally no tach. I thought my grounds were going bad again so I cleaned them up and checked voltage drop across them and they were good. After about 10,000...

I should have posted this in the transmission forum. How can I move it?

My truck intermittently started having erratic speedometer behavior, a flickering check gauges light, no gear selection light, and occasionally no tach. I thought my grounds were going bad again so I cleaned them up and checked voltage drop across them and they were good. After about 10,000...

Thanks, not much on ebay just now, 2 from Latvia and 1 from Australia, and $45 each. Might as well get the set of complete injectors from Leroy.

Where are you finding the nozzles? Rock Auto is only showing 1 available, Summit & O'Reily's have none, and most of the other Google results are ebay or Chinese web sites. I'm not confident in getting genuine Bosch from them.

Thanks for all the feedback, I'll just do 3rd gear when needed and keep EGT below 1050° and watch ECT. I feel more comfortable now knowing it can run that hot. I towed the trailer again, loaded this time to 3600 lbs, and the same area that I first noticed the 850° the other day got no hotter...

The hills I climbed yesterday were probably nothing over 5%, but some were several miles long. Putting it 3rd at 60MPH kept the temp around 850. When I do the move I'll have to get over a few of those burned up stains climbs. It sounds like 850 isn't so bad and the highest I let it get was 950...

Post turbo

Thanks, I was watching that too, it never went above 195°.

I haven't pulled it before and boost when I first noticed it on the flat was at 6PSI, climbing it would go higher, it goes as high as 15PSI under hard acceleration. When I slowed a bit to bring the temp down boost was around 3PSI. My pyro gauge red arcs at 1050° so I guess I'm still ok.

Yesterday I was towing an empty cargo trailer, about 1400 lbs, on nearly level ground at 65MPH and my EGT went right to the top of the green arc, 850°. When going up a hill I had to slow down and downshift to third to keep it there. Occasionally I let it go into the yellow arc to about 950° to...

I did not replace the oil cooler, the one I have was pretty new and after the old motor failed I had my oil analyzed, not from the filter but from the drain plug, and it came back with <.1% water contamination. I did have 38ppm Silicon (labeled as Moderate abrasive) and 1663ppm Calcium (labeled...

I think I've got it as good as it's going to get. In the past I had to cut off the end of my upper intake to install my ATT. When it failed and I had to go back to my GM4 I used a piece of 2.5" silicone hose to connect the cut off piece back to upper intake and I only used one clamp directly...

I looked for boost leaks and everything is tight. I didn't put any sealant on the turbine side of the center section, it didn't look like any was there originally, it doesn't look like there is any exhaust blowing by there. I'll check the v-clamp when I get a chance but there are no new exhaust...

It spun very freely, the old one still spun easily but you can hear something rubbing inside, I assume its a bearing going bad unless its the oil seal. The noise it was making is the reason I replaced it. I spun the new one from the air inlet also after assembly to make sure it wasn't rubbing...

Yesterday I changed the center section of my 20 year old GM4 turbo. The bearings were wearing out in the old one but it was still making good boost, 14PSI when climbing hills with EGT less than 800°F (pyro sensor in the down pipe after the turbo). Now I have screwed my TurboMaster to the end of...

I have no ECM codes all are from the 4WAL system read with my Tech2. I found the Anti-Lock Brake System manual for 1995 Suburban online. I'll be working my way through the Functional Test and troubleshooting flowcharts, but probably not until next week. I'm sure with all the tests it describes...

I finally got around to checking my codes, DTC35 "Open or Grounded Rear Speed Signal Circuit", and DTC65 "Open or Shorted Pump Motor Relay". While reading through the replies here I followed links about calibrating the VSSB for different tire sizes. My speedometer reads 3mph slower than my GPS...