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Im seeing two different smoking situations here. Cold start up it’s more blueish. What doe that smoke smell like? I am assuming it that is oil and the overheating issue from before beat up the rings especially in cylinders 7&8. Then the age of the valve guide seals are probably letting some...

Yeah- the b12 trick is usually for stuck rings not valve guide seals. Yes a bypass filter is a good thing. The one mentioned or the Frantz are both good choices. Yes to the compression test. My suggestion is do dry, wet, and cylinder leakdown tests to all at once. Write down the info in a...

FSD Fuel Solenoid Driver was one the aftermarket started using for a while. GM used PMD

Pmd- pump mounted driver. Pmd for Marty= pump moved driver😉

Sure not common. Yeah carry the spare

Yup- just keep running it. You just sped up the process with that overheat issue. Keep it in check best as possible. 200 is ok 210 watch the gauge more than the road 220 pull over& let it cool back to normal. Not a bad idea to pull & clean cdr. Clean upper. & lower intake. Take pics as...

Coat it with Rhinoline or LineX

What type of hose is that? Btw, please fill out the signature line. This helps us with what rig it is and what modifications have been done- falls under the line: Help us help you.

We hope the rig does awesome for decades to come. Have your grandkid pop on here too whenever age appropriate to keep grandpa’s truck rollin. There’s just something special to a family rig.

I wouldn’t expect to feel much of a difference. This is more to keep the ip healthy.

Well if it is v8 with 6 speed- so it would need the afm delete if not done yet. If you can diy the delete it isn’t too bad. But paying a shop to do it is pricey. Imo if you diy: pull the engine down the new cam & lifters with plugging the oil feed for afm and different cover. The ecm can be...

Not placebo. All those symptoms are right in line with the line being loose.

Woohoo! Love it when a fix is just tightening something up. The reason the other intake manifold is better isn’t just to stop the flow of exhaust from going into the intake- but to stop the heat. The exhaust goes against the intake everywhere and gets it stupid hot. Think about a charge air...

https://hummernetworkforums.com/threads/free-engines%E2%80%A6.250838/ So I spoke to Grayman. He met with a guy who owned a hummer business and is selling the lot of hummer parts apparently. None of the UROVA parts are there- all that was sold long ago. This would be more a reseller business...

You can sign up there- its a good forum for some stuff like this. It’s free and even uses same platform as this one. The moderator there was (is?) a member here also. There’s a thread right now about a guy in Northern Nv who is working out a deal for a TON of 6.5 parts. The guy who owned...

Ds4, well taken care of, 270,000 is about it. Db2 if well taken care of can be 325,000. But many things shorten that life. And that is them working but not working well. Efficiency drops after 150,000 for both.

The cdr will lessen the vacuum/ allow higher pressure in the crank case. It does nothing to help extract the pressure. It only limits the amount of air flow going through it at higher rpm.

200 is ok. At 210 watch it closely. 220 pull over and let it cool. Catch can= oil catch can = oil seperator = Different names, same thing & is what collects the oil vapors, allows them to condense back to a liquid and be drained back into the engine or discarded. some guys rather just put in...

On the manifold for $25 BUY IT! Install it, only drive off road because otherwise you might break a rule of the epa, hiway patrol, barney fife, etc in your area- even though doing it is one the the best ways to preserve the life of your engine. Is that clear between those lines or still hazy…...