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I'm going to paint this with rust encapsulator and trying to decide if I should use undercoating after that or just top coat it with a coat of paint?

Got the cab all washed up and stood up in the garage ready to paint the bottom

good bye rag joint and shitty door pins

well I found it when I pealed the floor back but then I went to my wrenches and couldn't find my 9 so I guess it was mine but I re found it? not sure why it was even out if it is mine. maybe the kid

the hole in the rubber floor..... it was kinda strange

got the cab takin apart and since the glass guy was here today putting a windshield In wife's suburban had him removed the windshield and the back glass to get ready for paint. Going to get it washed up and then get the underside painted this week and then off to the paint shop

it really is in good shape especially since it's been in the Midwest it's whole life best I can tell

Put the cab on an old boat trailer yesterday, got it in the shop now so I can get it stripped down and off to the body shop. Good thing I only had to go about half a mile and the body shop is 6 blocks from my house

was just talking with a buddy about that this evening. he has a couple sets of all the parts to do it. seems to be easy enough that I can do it down the road. I'm curious what just the rear disc is going to do for the performance

I have been wondering and can't find exactly what I'm looking for on the internet, but should I use a master cylinder from a GMT 800 since I am going with the axle from one of those trucks to have proper pressures for the disc brakes in the rear?

I guess I'll just have to add that to my rebuild project. keep my old one as a spare

I will do that. allot has changed around here since I hung around regularly many years ago

I guess I've been away from the forums too long so will this one bolt up directly

more pics

almost 2 years ago. I lost a rocker arm button on my engine and it sent a push tube through the engine block and down to the oil pan. I parked it because of other things and finally decided to get back to it after I found a rust-free cab from an old State of Nebraska truck, a 2wd CCLB dually...

I've been meaning to make a bigger post about my project. maybe I'll get around to that but right now I have a question about fuel lines. I have a raptor lift pump and pre-filter from Leroy and it uses half inch rubber lines up to where they connect and go along the transmission up to The ffm...

A buddy had a 243 case laying around. Bought it from him for $100 went to put it in the other night and turns out they are different number of splines on the input shaft. My truck has 32 splines and the doner case has 27. Can I split the case and just swap the input shafts?

No it does not Im just having issues with the push button shift and then the sound of the chain stretching and had a parts truck with the floor shift so thought I'd just swap but maybe it's just as easy to rebuild

My 96 has the push button shift transfer case and when you do get it in two four-wheel drive it makes a very bad sound like the chain is stretched or something. Rather than rebuild that one I have a floor shift case out of a 95 parts truck. Wondering what wiring I need to take from the 95 to...

Went and got some fresh fuel to see a comparison the jar on the left is fresh and the jar on the right is out of my tank it is definitely cloudy but still pours fine I wouldn't think it would be jelling up before the lift pump and making it not pump