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I’m just saying if the wires pass visual and tech. and are otherwise good but, the connectors are loose, repair or replace the connectors.

sorry for any confusion as I updated my post after I initially hit send. Repeating: In Yakima, “The best is PacTrans. Ask for Al or Bryan.”

@mannebk On Edit. In Yakima… The best is PacTrans. Ask for Al or Bryan.

Don’t know what status is as I finished the seal, got tackled by grandkids, packed the Atlas and left town without doing a test drive. I’ll let ya’ll know and I’ll pray the poor transfer case repair guy doesn’t get a surprise visit. Really appreciate the reminder though.

Finally decided to get the Output shaft seal replaced. No real issues and pretty straight forward. I viewed this guys YouTube vid to get familiarized with what the procedure should look like. The only hick up was the old seal was different than what I saw in the videos and the one I ordered...

I had my CDR and all plumbing connected for the test and, NO, the water will not get pulled all the way up the hose.

'Is this normal?' Yes. The old Heath Diesel page used to list a testing for blow by that involved visual checks at idle and vacuum pull at higher RPM (2500 IIRC). The aim was to not have people prematurely condemn their motors. I no longer have the document in digital or printed form (I...

Sounds like you got the wrong pads. Bad packaging? Just did the rear pads and rotors on Thing3's 2013 VW Jetta. Bracket bolts are the 'triple square' type. Torqued to about 1000lbs it seems. Used a breaker bar and floor jack to use the car's weight to break em loose. Confines are too tight to...

For me, its a 'while I'm in here' thing. I'd do the bolt mod because you don't know when you're going to either 'do things right' or one of those old plastic retainers is going to decide your next course of action for you. Bolts will cost you what 15 - 20 bucks? Cheap insurance and you can...

Bought a 19mm box end and cut out a portion and made my own line wrench 'for just such an emergency.'

@dbrannon79 I’m wondering if, in a failed attempt at logic, the 93 thinks it is exacting some sort of revenge for your wondering which truck to part out. Watch for the 95 to start running better to take advantage of the 93’ gullibility/naivety and failed sense of solidarity. I swear these...

I’m down for a road trip. I’m slated to do some traveling later this month/early next. I could actually pick it up either heading up to WA or, on the way back. I’m helping the FlatLiner Race Team Owner move to Kingman and driving one of the trucks. That schedule is driven by his current work...

Pull and inspect the heads. Retain for the 94 (just in case) or discard if questionable. You’d be able to see the condition of most of the cylinders. That’s going to be the question for potential recipients. Thinking that given your available time not being in MT now and construction starting...

My rear brakes need looking at too since its been 15 years… Understand about the Temp Gun. Shooting the outer edge (rust belt) of the rotor (dark meat). Honestly, the difference is only ~two degrees from the shiny side. Well within any of the gun’s margin of error Did a short test drive after...

Noticed a puddle about 2 x3 inches under the truck, back behind the engine and transmission. Thought it was hydrolic fluid from the leaking stump grinder the tree removal guys were using (it made a mess) and that’s where I’d parked the truck. Still…. Cleaned it all up and no more spotting when...

Last fall I replaced front rotors and pads with AutoZone Duralast parts. There was seemingly a bit more life to the old pads and the rotors weren’t cut like rings of Saturn or anything but, I wasn’t happy with the way it was stopping. Wasn’t pulling per se, but, the performance wasn’t what it...

Follow up. While changing the front rotors and pads a couple of months ago I discovered that the problematic upper control arm bushing on the driver’s side WASN”T changed out. In fact, the nut wasn’t even tight. Checked the work order for Les Schwab and further discovered that I had actually...

Did your IP Timing and TDC Offsets get done after the install? Try hooking up the scanner and get a read on the offset and with the parking brake set and wheels chocked, see what, if anything happens to IP Timing and Off Set when you shift into Reverse, and Or Drive.

If, as you say, these were common issues with the old motor too that seem to be getting worse, like Will said I’d be looking real hard at the wiring, PMD, fuel lines, lift pump etc. Stuff that wasn’t replaced and carried over with the install of the new engine.

Plugging in the truck solved/reduced the issue with my cold start grey acrid smoke, chugging, one cylinder ‘Fopping’ for a couple of seconds etc. As for the APP, my guess is the computer isn’t going to give the APP full command authority until the engine is happy but, that’s PURE CONJECTURE on...