Actually I knew that going in. :) We have 2 VW TDIs that get 40-45 MPG so it sort of evens out. Well I guess really 3 TDIs but one is for sale. The new Sub does like to slurp fuel though!:hungry:
2000 New Beetle TDI. ALH Diesel engine with 5 speed.
This is a great running car. Has Rocketchip stage 3 ECU and Dieselgeek Race Pipe.
16” alloy wheels & Bridgestone Ecopia tires with good tread.
Lots of upgrades and new parts in the last year, they include:
Rebuilt suspension with new Bilstein...
A couple more items:
New in box genuine GM throttle cable for DB2 pump PN 15674368 $50
Used but very good cruise cable for DB2 pump to Electromotive cruise box $50
Kennedy Lift Pump Control Harness works great $75
I'm ready to part out the mechanical stuff. I'll get a full list soon but almost everything is available.
Rolling body complete with interior, alloy wheels, etc. $1500
GEP short block with ARP head studs $2500
Includes flex plate, oil pan & turbo oil pump
GEP Turbo Heads $750 for the pair...
We are the original owners of this Suburban. The engine has been replaced with a 6500 Optimizer AMG engine with a DB2 injection pump. Details here
It developed a problem, details here
The body is in great shape, no rust or crash damage ever. Rare teal blue, rear tailgate, factory towing...
I've been busy with other projects but hope to get back to the Suburban soon. We really have gone back and forth about selling the whole lot or fixing it.
Thanks, I'll check this out. The block was rebored +020 and new pistons/rings installed, so I don't know why they wouldn't seat. But you may be onto something about the valves. I'll be out of town this weekend, so maybe next week I can get back into it.
The block was bored and check when at the machine shop. I told them to do what it needed, they said the deck & main bores were fine. Heads were new AMG .
I planning on doing something like this but using the starter to check compression, not running it.
I didn't see any damage to the lifters or valvetrain. I really doubt the timing chain has a problem, but I'll check it out. I'm still deciding what to do, maybe fix it, maybe sell the engine or the whole truck as is.
I looks like maybe there was water getting in 2 cylinders, but hard to say. You can still see the crosshatch in the cylinders, so very little wear. All the pushrods & rockers looked good. The bottom of the valve covers were spotless. BTW, every molecule of air this engine took in came...
Finally got around to taking the engine out. Didn't see anything that looked that bad. I'll take the heads in and have them checked to be sure. A few pictures:
I'm reasonably confident. I went back and checked the low cylinder on each side and got the same reading +/- 25 PSI.
On the K&N, I know they are typically panned on most forums due to a bogus “test” run years ago. I don't want to get into that here, but I have experience going back some 30...
About 60,000 miles, Yes K&N and been awhile on the oil analysis. I looked, 2012 was the last one on this engine, so not much help.
I know it didn't suck in any water, so not sure on that one.
I considered it could be a rocker, but not sure why it is low on multiple cylinders?
I thought about...
It's been a while since I posted. Lots of other projects going on, but now having problems with the Suburban. Some may remember the rebuild a while back, here is the link: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/my-suburban-renewal-project.14685/
It's been running fine, but a while back it...