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It's a Jasper remand fully dressed with the injection pump that cost $6700.00 that sat for 6 years, I plasti gauged the rods and they are all between .001 & .002". I did the ATF with the drill trick and it runs great. I'm going to offer it for sale for $3000.00 fully dressed with Injection pump...

Well I guess my drill trick with the ATF worked, here is the engine running with the same pump that wouldn't run on the engine but after my force feed ATF with the drill cleaned it out.

I'm thinking a 6.2 oil pan for any square body GM truck will work? Any comments on this working? Like the military K series Blazers, Suburban's or pickups? Not sure if the military ever had a 2 WD square body with a 6.2 in it?

Anybody have any good .030 over or larger 6.5 pistons for sale?

Will I have a Hummer question for you, would a 1992 or 1993 Humvee with a normally asperated 6.2 engine have a right hand or left hand rotation water pump?

No I haven't been able to look at my block yet does Mahle offer 18:1 or 18.5:1 or do you have to machine their pistons to get the lower compression.

I guess the best pistons would be MAHLE?

I was thinking of welding this crankshaft & block back together, NOT! LOL!

So where do you buy TTY head and main bolts if your just doing a regular rebuild?

So I have 2 929 blocks and a 506 block that was a warranty block in my Suburban before the P400. One of the 929 blocks is Ferminators old 6.5, the other came from a 95 K2500 Florida Forestry truck, which has a cylinder pitted from a blown head gasket. So my next move is to disassemble my 506...

Well, it doesn't look like I'll be rebuilding the 599 block I have

So I just went out to the shop and did this little test...With one battery reading 12.5 volts and the other at 12.15 with the big battery cable that powers the starter off so I can just measure volts to the solenoid. So with the hand trigger with no accessories on I get 9.5 volts. With the key...

I believe I'm missing this bracket possibly?

Can anyone tell me the color of the two wires with the red X's on them in this schematic? It's a1994 Suburban I'm thinking the top wire is purple and the bottom one is orange?

Here is a schematic, yes I'm measuring the purple signal wire from the ignition, the other day I measured it when it was hot and not working and it was around 9.6 even with the solenoid not engaging the starter. I was mistaken in an earlier post that the solenoid gets its power from the terminal...

Thanks Nate, I may take you up on that. I'm doing some testing as far as measuring what the voltage is at the terminal block on the firewall which is where the solenoid gets it's power from I believe, when it's cold and when it's hot. I was on a drive home on the highway a couple of weeks ago...

Is everyone that is using the Power Master able to install the OEM heat shield with it?

Yea, I got the solenoid that I have from a place like that, my starter is strong. The solenoid didn't last long before I started having problems again with it.

No, I cant seem to be able to get it to fit properly with the way the wiring is near the starter. I've tried a couple of times but for some reason the wires don't seam to have enough length to work with the shield. Or if I do it sandwiches the wires between the block and the shield, and I'd...

Yea, I was trying to just find a good solenoid, I'm spending a bunch of $ on projects right now so I didn't want to spend the 300 on the power master right now. My starter works fine but ak diesel driver is probably correct, they are all el cheapo china made crap.