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Their were 2 different sizes used and I don't remember when they changed, the ID is what changed to better govern oil flow... Like Les said, it may be drilled and not have nozzles.

Just know their are 2 different size nozzles...

A 2004 should have them...

I suggest you consider the manual glow mod, then you can extend the time the glow plugs glow...

We advised you to use 60g's for a very good reason, use other brands at your own risk. Your extended first start of the day doesn't point towards the glow plugs, it could be several things, glow time needs extended, fuel is draining back, etc...

No it's not flammable...

This is the best carbon remover I've ever used, water clean up... Use this as the liquid in the ultrasonic machine...

WD-40....

If a .070 gasket still makes the rod length shorter than stock either the block or heads have had a lot machined off...

Well you will need to clearance the heads or they will bind, and the valves will be very close if not touching the pistons.

As long as you are using a pushrod length checking rod, add .050" for preload. And you do know hs rockers use a 5/16 ball pushrod on the rocker end...

On the head work area, the most worthy gains are on the exhaust side, better turbo drive is a plus. The exhaust can show much bigger flow gains than intake if done right... As a side note I will have more news in the head area the first of the new year , first of it's kind type news...

Get rid of the studs and buy new tty head bolts...

The 2 I'm aware of weren't only diesel fuel, they both were injecting methanol at high numbers, so that isn't accurate data, we may not be talking about the same 2 also.... A lower lsa will improve the curve of both HP & torque range, thats why my grinds do just that and other changes. We can...

You can get a tranny pressure gauge, but what good will it be other than filling a hole.... Ya have a back pressure gauge?

A better idea would be tranny temp... Or do you have that already?

Seems we have always said not to follow arp's sealant directions, I know for years I have offered a better and proven way...

So have you fixed the water getting in the motor problem?

You're going to need a alignment afterwards, why not let them replace them then they can do the alignment and check everything else...

Try to rotate the motor while pulling it up, if there is sludge build up or the rod is stuck. Another sure way is to crank the motor, the cam gear will push it up, when it does the rod will stop turning the oil pump tho...