I haven't pulled it before and boost when I first noticed it on the flat was at 6PSI, climbing it would go higher, it goes as high as 15PSI under hard acceleration. When I slowed a bit to bring the temp down boost was around 3PSI. My pyro gauge red arcs at 1050° so I guess I'm still ok.
Yesterday I was towing an empty cargo trailer, about 1400 lbs, on nearly level ground at 65MPH and my EGT went right to the top of the green arc, 850°. When going up a hill I had to slow down and downshift to third to keep it there. Occasionally I let it go into the yellow arc to about 950° to...
I did not replace the oil cooler, the one I have was pretty new and after the old motor failed I had my oil analyzed, not from the filter but from the drain plug, and it came back with <.1% water contamination. I did have 38ppm Silicon (labeled as Moderate abrasive) and 1663ppm Calcium (labeled...
I think I've got it as good as it's going to get. In the past I had to cut off the end of my upper intake to install my ATT. When it failed and I had to go back to my GM4 I used a piece of 2.5" silicone hose to connect the cut off piece back to upper intake and I only used one clamp directly...
I looked for boost leaks and everything is tight. I didn't put any sealant on the turbine side of the center section, it didn't look like any was there originally, it doesn't look like there is any exhaust blowing by there. I'll check the v-clamp when I get a chance but there are no new exhaust...
It spun very freely, the old one still spun easily but you can hear something rubbing inside, I assume its a bearing going bad unless its the oil seal. The noise it was making is the reason I replaced it. I spun the new one from the air inlet also after assembly to make sure it wasn't rubbing...
Yesterday I changed the center section of my 20 year old GM4 turbo. The bearings were wearing out in the old one but it was still making good boost, 14PSI when climbing hills with EGT less than 800°F (pyro sensor in the down pipe after the turbo). Now I have screwed my TurboMaster to the end of...
I have no ECM codes all are from the 4WAL system read with my Tech2. I found the Anti-Lock Brake System manual for 1995 Suburban online. I'll be working my way through the Functional Test and troubleshooting flowcharts, but probably not until next week. I'm sure with all the tests it describes...
I finally got around to checking my codes, DTC35 "Open or Grounded Rear Speed Signal Circuit", and DTC65 "Open or Shorted Pump Motor Relay". While reading through the replies here I followed links about calibrating the VSSB for different tire sizes. My speedometer reads 3mph slower than my GPS...
Thanks, I'll check the codes when I get a chance. The brakes are fine so it's a low priorty. I guess I just don't have antilock, kind of like the time before Electronic Control Modules etc. when everybody had to know how to brake properly. Good thing I learned to drive in the 60's.
I have a 1995 Suburban that is supposed to have 4 wheel ABS. My ABS light comes on shortly after I start moving. I replaced my front brake pads today so while I was at it I took the rotors off to see what the wheel speed sensors look like. Of course they were filthy with lots of tiny metal...
I think I might have found it but I won't know until forever passes and it doesn't happen again. The positive terminal on the side of the under hood fuse box that connects to the right side battery and the fusible link to the glow plug relay was very corroded. I cleaned it up and now I wait to...
I need to revive this thread, the problem is back. The new AC Delco ign switch is barely 6 months old and the original problem happened twice in the last 2 weeks. During the first one I pulled the switch opened it up polished the contacts and put it back in and it worked. After that I checked...
Is Dennis on the forum? I have had this turbo rebuilt before by him. When I originally installed it the oil supply fitting vibrated out, I really didn't think the straight threads on this fitting and the paper gasket that was supposed to seal it was a good solution. My oil supply blew off while...
I didn't check the old motor for shavings I just bolted it to the pallet the new one came on and called the trucking company to come pick it up for the core return. I don't know why they would want it back though, not much chance of rebuilding that lump. ATT was only on new motor.
The coolant blow up was the previous episode, I was just explaining why the new motor, no loss of coolant this time. Only the seal in the turbo. Thanks for all the warnings though. When I did the engine replacement I put new everything on including radiator, oil cooler, IP, etc. My current...
New motor because the cracks in the old one finally reached the water jacket. I knew it was going to go soon as it started steaming out the exhaust. I put some block sealer in to try and prolong the inevitable and that worked for a couple of weeks. It blowed up real good while my daughter was...
I didn't hear any noise from it and it did spin since I did get boost, although not enough, so I assume the bearing is OK. Maybe just the seal but would that explain the loss of boost? I didn't inspect it too thoroughly, I just bagged it up and put it in my old parts box. I'm not sure if I want...