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Complete 6.5TD rebuild with used IP and no fuel to injectors!!Help!

suppakoopa said:
I solved this problem sometime last year but forgot to post the solution. Nothing is more frustrating than reading thru these threads without a definative answer! Anyway, it ended up having air locked in the fuel lines. I found a thread somewhere by Missy Goodwrench that gives the best procedure for bleeding out fresh fuel lines with a new IP. First, pull all the glow plugs. Then prime the system by turning the key to the on position for 45 seconds, you should hear the fuel pump rattling during this. This "prime" forces the fuel through the IP and back to the tank. Next crank for 20 seconds or so, watching the glow plug holes for fuel vapor squiring out. Repeat this entire procedure until all cylinders have a good fuel spray coming out of them. Also allow for stater to cool in between crank sessions. It took about 6 cycles of this until I had fuel coming out of all 8 glow plug holes. Re-installed the glow plugs and it fired right up! Thanks to all who replied, hope this helps someone else with similar no start symptoms.
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Hi 👋
I know this is an old dead post but I really hope it finds you still. I’m currently experiencing what you described and this is the only instance I can find of it online. I’m only getting .3 volts dc while cranking.
It’s a new to me rebuilt pump, I’m getting fuel to the pump I can see all the air is bled out of the return port ( I used some fuel rated clear so I can see). I’m getting nothing out of the lines. They are brand new lines from Leroy (thanks dude they look Great!) and I blew air to double check nothing was in them prior to install. Did you try that other pcm you ordered? Did you ever get the correct voltage? I’m so deep into this thing, if I can’t get it running again soon it’s either a big block swap or a manual pump conversion.
 
Jamez, welcome.
We need to make sure exactly what your situation is. Please fill out your signature line with truck details- especially any modifications. Pictures and videos are always helpful.

Do you have clear fuel line going into and out of the ip (injection pump)?
Any bubbles? Can you clearly see fuel flowing through it while cranking?

Was the truck in your possession-running before you swapped the ip?
What about pmd? Was it working and is the same one before you swapped the ip or are you using a new pmd that came on the new ip?

Have you hooked up a fuel pressure gauge at the ip after all the flexible fuel lines? What pressure?

With hard lines disconnected from all 8 injectors- is there any fuel coming out of any of the 8 lines?

What is your cranking rpm?


There are 10 questions. All 10 are CRITICAL.
 
Will L. said:
Jamez, welcome.
We need to make sure exactly what your situation is. Please fill out your signature line with truck details- especially any modifications. Pictures and videos are always helpful.

Do you have clear fuel line going into and out of the ip (injection pump)?
Any bubbles? Can you clearly see fuel flowing through it while cranking?

Was the truck in your possession-running before you swapped the ip?
What about pmd? Was it working and is the same one before you swapped the ip or are you using a new pmd that came on the new ip?

Have you hooked up a fuel pressure gauge at the ip after all the flexible fuel lines? What pressure?

With hard lines disconnected from all 8 injectors- is there any fuel coming out of any of the 8 lines?

What is your cranking rpm?


There are 10 questions. All 10 are CRITICAL.
Click to expand...
Ok here is my original backstory. Sorry this got really long but this should be every detail I have.

Hey everyone 👋
I need some help….
I have a 1994 K3500 6.5td 5 speed 4x4 and it won’t start.

I went through every test and try that I have found online.

Starter was shot it now has a brand new power master starter from Quadstar.
It has good new batteries.
New lift pump(stock style)
I checked voltages in and out of the pmd, at the fuel shut off solenoid.
Tried a new pmd and extension from Amazon.
Ffm/fuel filter is clean and looks fine.
I’ve bled the lines at the filter and again at the T valve near the injection pump.
I cracked the injector lines loose and bled them from the pump to the injectors.
She did start and ran for about 30 seconds , while short she sounded awesome everything seemed great and I was thinking I had her dialed in.
That 30 seconds was it, she shut off and I haven’t been able to get it started again.
I retraced all the steps and when I went to check the injection lines and bleed them the fuel was barely trickling out this time. I jumped the oil pressure switch to keep the lift pump on to make sure it had fuel the entire time.
So I don’t know what I should look into next. I don’t want to just start throwing parts at it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Update she started today it was a Christmas miracle!

I was getting these codes without it starting
14,17,29,31,42,47,57,62.
I was messing with the accelerator it started and ran but would die if I took my foot off the throttle.
Now I’m getting.
14,17,18,29,31,35,42,47,57,62

I bypassed the shut off solenoid. It started but only if I had the Accelerator pedal at least 1/4-1/3 of the way down.

Part 2

Rewired the positive and negatives on the battery and new power wires down to the starter and alternator.

New alternator

Cleaned the grounds and added extra grounds.

Well that got it running and it sounded good I was driving it around town.

I was getting codes that would come and go .

The factory harness was pretty rough and a lot of the connectors were broken and zip ties on. I ordered a new quadstar engine harness. Then it took forever to start, ran for about 5 minutes and then died. It wouldn’t restart. A few days later same thing happened cranked for a long time, started then died after 5mins.

It was still giving codes pointing to the injection pump.
They would come and go some days it would be 14,17,18,29,31,35,42,43,57,62
Then 14,17,18,31,35,42,57,62
Then 14,31,42,57,62
Then 16,17,18,29,31,35,42,43,47,57,62

Part 3 and current situation
Rebuilt injection pump
All new hard lines, new injectors
New Fass lift pump
New injector return lines.
New fluidamper
New new crankshaft pulley
New water pump
New radiator and hoses
Second new pmd harness and extension

Here are your questions.

Do you have clear fuel line going into and out of the ip (injection pump)? No just out of it

Any bubbles? There was bubbles at first but there aren’t any now.
Can you clearly see fuel flowing through it while cranking? Yes I can see fuel flowing and I can see some diesel getting to the injectors through the return lines.

Was the truck in your possession-running before you swapped the ip? I bought it not running then got it running and now it’s not running again.

What about pmd? New amazon pmd and extension as well as a new one from Quadstar and one from the new pump as well as 2 from the old pump so I’ve tried 5 different pmd 2 different extensions as well as trying without the extensions.

Was it working and is the same one before you swapped the ip or are you using a new pmd that came on the new ip? Yes at one point it was running with the Amazon one.

Have you hooked up a fuel pressure gauge at the ip after all the flexible fuel lines? I have not but the Fass should be around 10psi, I don’t have a guage or way to check it. What pressure?

With hard lines disconnected from all 8 injectors- is there any fuel coming out of any of the 8 lines? No absolutely nothing.

What is your cranking rpm? I don’t know the tach isn’t moving at all but I know she’s spinning fast. Should my tach be moving while cranking? I thought it did before but now it’s not moving at all.

I’m only getting 0.3 volts on the green wire where I’m supposed to be getting 1.2 volts from what I’ve read online.

Again sorry this got so long.

Thanks in advance for any help.
I really need this thing to start working.
 
Ok. Fuel pressure going to the ds4 should be 8-14 psi. But so long as it has any pressure at all it should start & run.

The clear line - 1/4” diameter about 5” long that is in place for the ip return line-
Please post a pic of it so we see you have the correct location. Having a tiny bubble trapped in there is ok, but you should never see a flow of bubbles (or anything besides clean fuel flowing).

You already replaced the engine harness it sounds like, just double check you have all the grounds are good. One goofy one can cause chaos.

This sounds to me like an issue with the electronics of the ds4, so at that point I will step back as there are many guys here better than I am to chase the hiccups.
 
Will L. said:
Ok. Fuel pressure going to the ds4 should be 8-14 psi. But so long as it has any pressure at all it should start & run.

The clear line - 1/4” diameter about 5” long that is in place for the ip return line-
Please post a pic of it so we see you have the correct location. Having a tiny bubble trapped in there is ok, but you should never see a flow of bubbles (or anything besides clean fuel flowing).

You already replaced the engine harness it sounds like, just double check you have all the grounds are good. One goofy one can cause chaos.

This sounds to me like an issue with the electronics of the ds4, so at that point I will step back as there are many guys here better than I am to chase the hiccups.
Click to expand...
There was bubbles there when I was priming and getting fuel there , the bubbles are all gone now.

I’m not sure the ds4 or pmd is getting the right voltage from the computer.
 
Will L. said:
Ok. Fuel pressure going to the ds4 should be 8-14 psi. But so long as it has any pressure at all it should start & run.

The clear line - 1/4” diameter about 5” long that is in place for the ip return line-
Please post a pic of it so we see you have the correct location. Having a tiny bubble trapped in there is ok, but you should never see a flow of bubbles (or anything besides clean fuel flowing).

You already replaced the engine harness it sounds like, just double check you have all the grounds are good. One goofy one can cause chaos.

This sounds to me like an issue with the electronics of the ds4, so at that point I will step back as there are many guys here better than I am to chase the hiccups.
Click to expand...
Will is my tach supposed to show something while cranking?
 
Run through this even with FASS if your tank sock is plugged up you may not be getting fuel to IP, https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/lift-pumps-ops-operation-and-troubleshooting.6872/ also check gnd and power to the FASS pump those are pretty loud you should hear it running.
Where/how is your FASS connected for power?

I doubt you will see any rpm during cranking, the dash tach signal comes from the Alternator, the rpm the PCM uses comes from the crank sensor and optic sensor in the IP for backup rpm for PCM generally you need a real time scan tool to see those rpms.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Run through this even with FASS if your tank sock is plugged up you may not be getting fuel to IP, https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/lift-pumps-ops-operation-and-troubleshooting.6872/ also check gnd and power to the FASS pump those are pretty loud you should hear it running.
Where/how is your FASS connected for power?

I doubt you will see any rpm during cranking, the dash tach signal comes from the Alternator, the rpm the PCM uses comes from the crank sensor and optic sensor in the IP for backup rpm for PCM generally you need a real time scan tool to see those rpms.
Click to expand...
Fass is wired with the harness they sent and is on and running when my key is in the run and start positions. My tank is clean as in sparkling clean, the sock looks brand new as well, but I also have the beans machine large bottom sump.
 
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