Recent content by WarWagon

This clutch is only "on" if you select 3, 2, or 1. It's not on in reverse or OD aka 4th. Those who only use "OD" and "R" never use this clutch.

Cold engine use the IR gun aimed very near the glow plug. Write down the temps. Cycle the glow plugs, but, DO NOT START the engine. Quickly check the same areas again. Any that haven't heated up some are likely trouble spots for the glow plugs. Start on the turbo side as these are the hard...

After a "used" pump with a bad governor bent all the valves (and other major damage) in my engine at 4300+ RPM ... This is actually the cheapest option.

My mistake. I assumed your equipment, brakes, were 100% although your were saying you were driving a rig having trouble. We have all been there with brake trouble either sudden (like a pad comes off the backing plate) or long term (say obsolete rear drums auto adjusters frozen) creeping up. And...

I believe that’s correct. Tap the throttle once to kick the idle up. I recall starting instructions on the sun visor backside on my 1993. It’s a 1/4 turn stab in the dark. Expensive to have a shop calibrate it. IDK if the pressure gauge and adaptor you need to DIY is available.

The RETARD lever on the side of the pump driven off the throttle shaft is working. This means the advance system is operable on the pump. I don't believe it cares what the housing pressure is to work. I vaguely recall it's all mechanical to force the piston back or equalizes the pressure across...

Fixed it for you. Little too happy on the 0's. Generally if GM's 6.2 (and punched out 6.2 called a 6.5) Disposable Diesel doesn't find a way to kill itself with, eating glow plugs, cracking the main webs clean out, cracking a cylinder, breaking a crankshaft, spitting the block corner off with...

@mannebk You have gotten very good advice of 1) get a scanner on it and see what the computer (ECM) is seeing and doing. 2) Turn it TF around and drive the 2 hours back to a KNOWN GOOD RECOMMENDED SHOP esp. with your bitching about BAD techs/shops out there. Better yet where is your final...

Did they blow with a rust like texture on the tips? If so timing is too advanced somewhere in your tune.

A 6.5 is a punched out 6.2, period. With the same turbo setup off a 6.5 slapped on it should run the same. The precups do make a difference. But as long as it’s not the delivery van econo NA cups it’s fine. You can turn down the 6.5 pump easily enough. I would keep looking for a better engine...

Is your rig in good enough shape to justify the cost of a new engine? Do you need it enough? It’s an uninsurable risk of new engine cash sunk into it after a short time if the rig burns down or gets stolen. Used military engines are, well the good ones, are scarce now. Most are scrap metal...

Your not. Without a shroud the fan is helpless moving hot are behind the radiator NOT through it … The high side of the A/C overheats and cycles the compressor too frequently at a stoplight. It can’t get the oil moving well cycling like that. Combine that with a hot compressor and extreme high...

One on the compressor is for high pressure safety cut-out. (Before the system explodes or blows something out.) The switch on the liquid line after the condenser forces the system into recirculate when the high side pressure is high to reduce system load. (Limited design that is worse when the...

To the OP my signature line details the TSP condenser I put in my Dodge Cummins. Money well spent! But after you get the system working…

The tensioner for 1995 and older engines have to deal with the compressor load on the belt so they have a stronger spring than the 1996+ engines that have the compressor on the driver side of the engine. As above verify belt routing and proper length. Aftermarket doesn't F'N get it and they all...