Recent content by MrMarty51

Next thing to check is the length of the rod from the hydroboost to the master cylinder. Step son bought vac boost/master cylinder set to convert his 67 chevy truck to power brakes. He screwed with that for two or three days then finally calls Me. I go over and adjust the pedal to booster rod...

5-W40 Rotella T6 os good fir those temps. Whats the temperature gauge tell You when those cold temps hit ? If temp gauge is getting at or near normal operating range then do nothing. If installing any kind of a cover over the grill/radiator, be sure that the vent opening is centered to the fan...

IDK whats available in Nevada or Arizona. I took the clutch, TO bearing and fly wheel for the 1959 Dodge Power Wagon to this company in Billings. https://clutchmasters.com/ft-2434-faq.html They asked questions, the main question was, will You be in situations where You might be riding the clutch...

Never herd of it afore.

I think I’ll get at least one of those for on the shelf. Very first sign of slack on the precision unit and it will be off. Now I’ll most likely be checking ball joints at every oil change. Lowers are original and has no slack whatsoever.

What brand ball joints did You install ? ? ? ? Now we should check the ball joints about every six months and see which brand wears the quickest. 🤷😹

Chinkachinesium ball joint.

No. Only parts store that was open on Friday was Oryllies and they had Precision and some other unheard of brand. I had previously used Precision brand U-Joints and those held up for many years so I had them get in the Precision brand. I hope these are as good as the U-Joint i installed years...

New ball joint hath arrivedeth. Remembered to route the hose and wire on the proper journey. And back together. The Chiltons book says torque for those small #8 10.9 nuts with 1.25 thread is 52 ft. Lbs. no way. Looked at my list of torque charts and it tells me that max tirque for that bolt...

Yes they was, uhhhh, is, was. Well, now one will be and one will be bolted on. 🤷😹😹😹

I was surprised, tapered bolt popped right loose from knuckle. I did have a fair size pry bar onnit but usually have to rap on the knuckle where the bolt goes through to get them to pop loose. The nut wasnt real tight too. An alignment shop installed those for me.

Checking balling joints. The upper control arms has not that many miles and time on them. I replaced them maybe five or six years ago. Both lowers good, left upper good. Right upper.

Also got a replacement 30 PSI sending unit for the FP gauge from GlowShift. Get that installed and see how long it will last. If they dont want it back the flange will get ground off and then the rheostat within will get scrutinized and picked apart to figure out why this one was a failure. I am...

I need to get to the garage and check steer components on my truck. Figure what that pop feel/sound is coming from. Oh wait, I’m too full right now. Maybe tomorrow, 80% chance of rain. That will be much better.