Recent content by drag sgt

Yes I still have them and no missing screws across the cowl. There are no cracks on my seam sealer, thankfully, but I spread a little rtv over the access panel, anyways. I did some gentle prodding with a pick beforehand and it didn't feel brittle, either.

Well it really poured this weekend, but I so I had to pull the truck in to keep working on it. I have a couple tubes of Victor Reinz RTV that I blobbed around the cowl screws on both sides. It doesn't look pretty but it's mostly covered, anyways. I also ran some under the windshield on that...

I made a discussion on the GMT400 forum but thought I'd cross post here, as well as I'm mostly worried about moisture near the ECU You can see my full images here but the short of it is that I'm getting a mildewy smell up front on the passenger side now that the weather is wet/humid, but am not...

Well I managed to get it all up with minimal scratching--it took multiple rounds of engine degreaser soaks and a loose razor blade. I had to take the upper radiator hose off because I couldn't contort myself well enough to reach the farthest corners. Now the real challenge is getting the intake...

I thought that too, but I ran into a lot of posts warning people not to do it on "in-vehicle" parts that can't be washed properly due to metal residues.

Yeah, I'd be worried about the connectors and wiring if I went at it with a full torch. I do have a mini one my wife got me in a whisky smoking kit though, so I may try that as I can get the flame pretty small and controlled.

I was unlucky the other day and had the upper intake thread tab break in half on my lower intake, so I had to source a yard unit and am in the process of replacing it. I don't know whether this is just 26 year old original gasket material or at some point it was replaced and glued on, but...

This guy made a coupler for his IDI using a 1" barbed fitting. Again I don't know what size our 6.5 grommets are but it's an idea. https://www.thedieselstop.com/threads/cdr-for-6-9-turbo-and-tube.424305/

What about cutting the base tube of the CDR off and fitting it with a rubber elbow then? That way you still have an OEM style connection that fits in the valve cover grommet. I doubt they're the same size, but if they're in stock locally you could have the parts store guys grab a 7.3 IDI valve...

I wouldn't run the new Provent2 with a CDR, but my comment was more to the fact that if I hadn't already spent $60ish to replace my old CDR valve, I'd spend the $180 to do a Provent2 conversion, instead. I don't have excessive blowby or oil consumption (knock on wood) so it's more of a want than...

Oh, I see now. I had to look at the service documents to spot it, but they reversed the inlet/outlet positions so that it pulls air up through the filters. IDParts has the 200 unit listed for 179.95 right now...

What has changed in the new Provent? I didn't see anything specific in their flyer comparing the old and new.

No, it just had all the OEM connector, previously. I changed everything except for the aforementioned over to a top post 3/8 connection paired with those military-style battery terminals.

This may be what I end up trying, as well, just to be thorough. Did you get the OEM wires from a different year truck, or different vehicle altogether? If I can repurpose something During the extended holiday I went ahead and upgraded all the battery connections, except the starter/alternator...

A week out and everything is running good still, with no cluster lights. We're visiting family in much colder climate right now and there have been quick startups, regardless. I'm actually feeling inspired to upgrade the rest of the battery connections, and starter cable now. Seems to be a lot...