Recent content by ak diesel driver

that area above the body line and to the left of the door/fender seam is where I would be suspecting something

I'd want to know before I spent a bunch of time and money. Helps you decide what to do repair or replace. The other thing would be to pull the inside door panel off, then you can look and feel how bad it is.

They make a magnetic tool to find out how thick the Bondo is...

The hinges are adjustable but I think that thing has been in a wreck and has had bondo job done on it

If that screen is plugged you won't get any fuel out of the FFM. It does slide up and off the tube it's on but can be tight

It would be hard to test unless it fails completely. Alot of times it will show continuity but when you put a load on it it won't carry it.

I've had 2 trucks with about 300k apiece never replaced a ujoint or carrier bearing. Anymore you might be introducing crap parts

I'd be suspecting ign switch. Not the key part but the electrical switch down lower on the column

I used the ac delco rocker buttons got them thru Oreilly's. Finished everything up today, ended up not being able to use the spacers I made for the bracket that hooks to the manifold, it pushed the wiring too far back and made it too short to reach the baro sensor. I did use my xtool scanner to...

I turned down one end of a 3" abs coupler for a friend

Definitely on the downhill side of this project. Both valve covers are glued back on , intake is back on, turbo is back on. Still to do is to make some bracket extensions for the wiring bracket that goes to the intake. Then the FFM and tubing, fan clutch and fan, and coolant crossover. Then...

The white ones are new. Didn't seem to be much wear on anything else.

Number 5&7 were definitely getting loose. 1&3 not too bad

So got side tracked by a couple of things but the front of the engine is back together. Now I'm tackling the rocker buttons. Got the DS valve cover off. Pleasantly surprised at how little sludge I have.