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Turbo rebuild, replace, upgrade

SnowDrift

SnowDrift

Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
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With an updated engine in my near future, and about 180,000 miles on the current ticker, should I be planning to do something about the original turbo, too? I've wanted a different setup for a while and I know HX40 has been mentioned for better mileage. Leroy sells a turbo that is a bolt-on, as well.

There is a slight bit of movement on my wheel (I suppose I should measure so we can narrow down "slight" a bit better).

There is a local guy with a reman for under $300
1664587598609.png
If I upgrade to something like a HX40 or what Leroy sells, would a new program be in order, too, or would it work right "out of the box"?

I'm just wondering if I should keep it mild and stay with stock or do something different.

This could easily become a money pit project...
 
Welcome to the slippery slope of upgrades, performance, and yes the money pit

It's been well documented on here how almost anything is an upgrade from the stock turbo

Just like your engine, what your plans are for use/ power will dictate which turbo to use. HX35/40 is common for towing applications, the 40 would not work as well down low but be great for economy. Have not heard of any reviews on the Super 54/60 turbos

If your programming already works with your existing turbo master setup, and you can use a turbomaster on any of the aforementioned turbos, then you probably wouldn't need a new tune, but would probably get best performance from a tune specifically matched to the turbo

This is in my opinion another endorsement for going mechanical on an IP- you have some manual control over fueling, and you can swap out turbos/ play around with boost without having to worry about the computer getting in your way and throwing you into limp mode. I know programming is nice for drivability and all but nothing to me says money pit more than having to thrown down hundreds of bucks at a time to change fueling and boost tolerances
 
It's as cheap or cheaper to build a real holset. For 1 you know what you really have, 2 replacement parts easy to get, loads of options that swap in with no mods, etc... I tested 3 different combos before I found what worked very well with my setup. There is no perfect turbo for all motors or drivers, those that settle without experimenting are just going to not have a optimum setup for the way they expect.... Just my thoughts here.
 
Ask and mention whoever you want. We are not supposed to add a link to non vendor parts if the vendors have that part for sale. Like You can say Orielly’s sales a pmd, but don’t link their website selling it. But you can link to Leroy’s site because he is a paying vendor.

From what I understand you could show a picture of it, talk about it, the price, all that.
 
One of the vendors I mentioned sells through Ebay, but it's in the $800 range. Used to be PT Wiring Solutions. I've looked at Leroy's turbo, also. In the past I had considered the A Team, but it sounds like that has been outperformed by other types.

I understand those that produce a "package" have done some homework and that comes at a cost. I respect that, fully. I'm also not opposed to putting my own stuff together if someone wants to guide me through the process. I'm ignorant on the subject.

The goal is to replace the factory turbo with an effective model, have something I can hear distinctly through all rpms, including idle, and have something that requires very little fabrication. I certainly don't want to blow the bottom off the motor, either. If I get an engine together and can only safely set the wastegate controller to allow 1 psi, then that's what I'll do. I don't plan to trash another block and if having mine set too high was the culprit, I don't want to relive that.
 
So, go through the details of what you want from it. If this is for the 3/4 ton - what is important?
Longer life or pushing power levels up.
Mpg or power.
0-60 important vs better at cruising on the interstate.
Tow often and if so what weight or wind drag on trailer.
Off road at slow speed needing low rpm torque for rocks and sand or high rpm spinning wheels through mud bog.
Any Intercooler, is so what kind.
List transmission, axle gears & tire size.

A 6.5 is never going to do wazoo numbers in multiple categories. So picking the range that is most desirable puts you into a section of more friendly use.
Then folks can share what might fit you best.

I love having a ton of low end torque, but will do a good on of freeway driving near 3,000 rpm because of my gears. Since i will have more torque from idle up than stock I have to give up extra low end to keep the engine alive on the hiway. Those two are opposing desires.
Along with I want to beat traffic from the stop light on most occasion but would like higher mpg- again can’t have both so I had to choose fun pedal instead of wallet saver.
Just don’t tell my wife the outcome was planned! Haha
 
Diesel Auto Power has a

14CM 0.80 AR NON WASTEGATED T3 TURBINE HOUSING 73.4MM (73 OR 74) WHEEL 4.0" DIVIDED HX40 OUTLET - 86​

for $329

Rudy's Diesel has a

WICKED WHEEL 2 COMPRESSOR WHEEL FOR HX40 TURBO​

for $229

NP Boosted has a

TURBO TURBINE SHAFT & EXHAUST WHEEL FOR CUMMINS 5.9L HOLSET HX40 HX40W 10 BLADE​

for $139.95

A search for a turbo housing yielded complete turbos or rebuilds.

Am I on the right path?
 
Most folks with a basically stock DS4 truck find the HX35W 12cm turbine works well all around.

Now a DB2 truck with added fuel needs a fast spool AND more air, a 35/40/14 is very good @ 61lbs per minute air... a compressor map comes in very handy when considering different turbos... the more the fuel rate is the more air that's needed...

The choice depends on the application and use where YOU want best performance ie, towing, day driver, hot rod, etc.... it all comes into play...
 
I sure wish I could find a turbo video series that is like a class- teach the ins and outs of sizing turbo to the needs.
There seems to always be a couple guys around that have a descent grasp and can explain why to choose unit B between A,B,C&D. But my whole life has been dependent on those guys or try swapping a bunch around.

Swapping is better because you get an honest feel. But was a lot easier when there is multiple guys to swap around and try each others turbo and only spend a few bucks doing it.
 
Will L. said:
I sure wish I could find a turbo video series that is like a class- teach the ins and outs of sizing turbo to the needs.
There seems to always be a couple guys around that have a descent grasp and can explain why to choose unit B between A,B,C&D. But my whole life has been dependent on those guys or try swapping a bunch around.

Swapping is better because you get an honest feel. But was a lot easier when there is multiple guys to swap around and try each others turbo and only spend a few bucks doing it.
Click to expand...
Here again most don't want to spend the money on real world testing, with this motor anyways, now other motor applications and uses it's normal or necessary , not many real racers use the same stuff as the rest of the field.. same applies here, test test test.
 
Thanks for the links, Chris. I didn't link any of those I posted because I wasn't sure I could. I saved all your links on a document in case they get taken away from us.

I did run across some of those you posted, as well, while I was digging around.

I agree, Will. I will search out a "turbo 101" after while to see if I can find anything.
 
@SnowDrift I'll save you the headache and link to the 10 blade turbine unit.


It's at least my understanding that the HX35 turbine side takes a 70/60mm inducer/ exducer wheel, the unit Chris posted is most likely for a HX40 turbine side. I could be wrong though, happens constantly

I have the exact 35/40 that Chris posted with a 6 blade wheel and the aforementioned 10 blade unit. I have yet to run the truck though as I did a DB2 swap and front mount intercooler upgrade at the same time and the pump is not working right so I'm parallel parked for the time being

I would also like to do some real world testing as I was told a 16cm2 40 would spool up just as quickly as a 14cm2 35/40. If anyone has a link to a genuine HX40 I'd love to know where to source one should my wallet ever catch up with my wishlist 🙃
 
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