dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
if you want to stay automatic, a 700R4 is nearly the same as the 4L80E or you could go with the big money for a gear vendors overdrive unit.
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Thinking of pulling the plug on my 6.2.
- Thread starter Big Ray
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Imo it’s your thread and if the politics of brandon affect your decision on the diesel vs gasoline- no reason you can’t take the conversation there. Now if it was someone else’s thread you you started with politics that might not be nice.
This forum is pretty good about free speech.
On the conversion to the gas engine, i just ask why? If the diesel is blown up, or you are thinking it will one day and you rather gas for convenience and cheaper engine cost, want to sell the 6.2 while it is “running” condition for most money, then you really ought to get it running good and be able to show buyers it runs to get most money from it. Just my theory.
And really this site is a 6.2/6.5 site at its core, so maybe it’s the misery loves company side of me, but I don’t see why not rescue the 6.2 and run it until it blows. Maybe set aprice on the engine where they leave a deposit, then you pull it and they pay the rest when they pick it up?
You said the fuel system is probably needing redone, right? You would have to redo it for gas engine anyway. Depending which version of the 454 you put in, you would need a good 5/16 or better a 3/8 fuel line to the engine, right? Some gas systems use a fuel return line, and some don’t. So first determine what kind you need for your gas engine.
I say, drop the tank and get rid of the old fuel. Diesel fuel we have now is not real diesel fuel. It has the ethanol/ methanol mixed in for emissions and possibly has fuel bugs in it by now. Some people don’t want to waster the money of the fuel- but do the math 20 gallons at $5 a gallon is $100, no one wants to waste that. But if engine doesn’t run right with it, or it does have too much water or bugs in it- now you ruin an injection pump and injectors along with the new filter you need to start with. Suddenly the $100 is nothing. So just get rid of it. Go kill some weeds somewhere or something.
put in new fuel line, factory should be 3/8 supply part way then 5/16 after that and 1/4 return. Replace the rubber lines with sae30r9. That is the ethanol/methanol rated stuff. New hose clamps. Diesel tanks need to have the return line submerged into the liquid in the tank, returning gasoline lines don’t need that, but it is a better choice when return lines are required.
Replace any steel lines that are rusty and questionable. Diesel leaking out fuel, or sucking in air is bad and rarely start a fire. But gasoline DEFINITELY starts fires, so you ought to do this no matter the engine.
If you want to upgrade line size, go to 3/8 supply and choose return line increases based on which series 454 you have. Bumping up the db2 to 3/8” line the entire way definitely helps. You can unscrew the back of the ip cone, drill and tap or just buy the ford cone because ford was smart enough to listen to Stanandyne’s recommendations of 3/8 feeding it.
Later if you go to 454 with carburetor- just plug off or remove the 1/4” return line. It won’t hurt anything to sit there unused.
My suggestion is at the ip location, so that there is no rubber afterwards, mount in a “T” fitting for a fuel pressure gauge sending unit. Low or no LP (lift pump) pressure wears out an ip (injection pump) much faster along with harder starting, low power, etc. so a simple gauge you can see while you drive is instant diagnostic your fuel system is all good.
I am going to go one level above that and add a second sending unit before the filter. Then simple switch that both sending units go to, and from switch to gauge. So I can flip a switch and read pressure before and after filter on one gauge. When I see the difference of pressure is too much, it is time for a new fuel filter.
If you are planning the gas engine just do the gas filter underneath and it can pre a serviceable stainless steel filter that while you drive the 6.2, is a prefilter.
Most gas engines get filtered to 10 micron, but diesel is 5 micron.
here is a holley article on it.
www.holley.com
Definitely fix the stuff that needs fixing regardless of later engine
This forum is pretty good about free speech.
On the conversion to the gas engine, i just ask why? If the diesel is blown up, or you are thinking it will one day and you rather gas for convenience and cheaper engine cost, want to sell the 6.2 while it is “running” condition for most money, then you really ought to get it running good and be able to show buyers it runs to get most money from it. Just my theory.
And really this site is a 6.2/6.5 site at its core, so maybe it’s the misery loves company side of me, but I don’t see why not rescue the 6.2 and run it until it blows. Maybe set aprice on the engine where they leave a deposit, then you pull it and they pay the rest when they pick it up?
You said the fuel system is probably needing redone, right? You would have to redo it for gas engine anyway. Depending which version of the 454 you put in, you would need a good 5/16 or better a 3/8 fuel line to the engine, right? Some gas systems use a fuel return line, and some don’t. So first determine what kind you need for your gas engine.
I say, drop the tank and get rid of the old fuel. Diesel fuel we have now is not real diesel fuel. It has the ethanol/ methanol mixed in for emissions and possibly has fuel bugs in it by now. Some people don’t want to waster the money of the fuel- but do the math 20 gallons at $5 a gallon is $100, no one wants to waste that. But if engine doesn’t run right with it, or it does have too much water or bugs in it- now you ruin an injection pump and injectors along with the new filter you need to start with. Suddenly the $100 is nothing. So just get rid of it. Go kill some weeds somewhere or something.
put in new fuel line, factory should be 3/8 supply part way then 5/16 after that and 1/4 return. Replace the rubber lines with sae30r9. That is the ethanol/methanol rated stuff. New hose clamps. Diesel tanks need to have the return line submerged into the liquid in the tank, returning gasoline lines don’t need that, but it is a better choice when return lines are required.
Replace any steel lines that are rusty and questionable. Diesel leaking out fuel, or sucking in air is bad and rarely start a fire. But gasoline DEFINITELY starts fires, so you ought to do this no matter the engine.
If you want to upgrade line size, go to 3/8 supply and choose return line increases based on which series 454 you have. Bumping up the db2 to 3/8” line the entire way definitely helps. You can unscrew the back of the ip cone, drill and tap or just buy the ford cone because ford was smart enough to listen to Stanandyne’s recommendations of 3/8 feeding it.
Later if you go to 454 with carburetor- just plug off or remove the 1/4” return line. It won’t hurt anything to sit there unused.
My suggestion is at the ip location, so that there is no rubber afterwards, mount in a “T” fitting for a fuel pressure gauge sending unit. Low or no LP (lift pump) pressure wears out an ip (injection pump) much faster along with harder starting, low power, etc. so a simple gauge you can see while you drive is instant diagnostic your fuel system is all good.
I am going to go one level above that and add a second sending unit before the filter. Then simple switch that both sending units go to, and from switch to gauge. So I can flip a switch and read pressure before and after filter on one gauge. When I see the difference of pressure is too much, it is time for a new fuel filter.
If you are planning the gas engine just do the gas filter underneath and it can pre a serviceable stainless steel filter that while you drive the 6.2, is a prefilter.
Most gas engines get filtered to 10 micron, but diesel is 5 micron.
here is a holley article on it.
How To Choose a Fuel Filter
Determining the correct fuel filter for your application can be made easier with some guidance and a little explanation. Follow along as we explain the ins and outs of choosing the best filter for your fuel system.
www.holley.com
Definitely fix the stuff that needs fixing regardless of later engine
I should have done this to my 1993 when I was able to. The SOB would still be on the damn road vs. parted out from another blown GM 6.2/6.5 Diesel. Yet the 454 was typical Mediocre GM with the TBI and other things that made it a "gutless gas hog". Shut up and pour the damn gas down the 454 we had I have told my dad many times.
Now the GM diesels are somewhat rare and even rarer now due to the "limited life" "let's be CHEAP" the GM beancounters of that era applied to their Lemon Law writing Diesel engines. The Olds 5.7 Diesel put Lemon Laws on the books after all.
That said one can try to economically get it running and then IMO sell it vs. the big black hole for cash of a gas engine conversion. The diesels were going for some premium money. With gas prices getting high people going to be unloading these old gashogs for cheap again. So buy a gas engine rig and drop the cash in making it nice.
93detroit
Well-Known Member
I don't believe the 6.2-6.5 was a bad design. However, the execution was pretty bad. If GM would have built the engine that Detroit designed, a lot of the conversations on here would have never happened.
BIGR
Lucky To Be Here
I just bought diesel this morning for $ 4.49 a gallon, I topped my tank off I'm going on a trip to retrieve my hunting camper in a few days. That's going to be a costly trip. Burn about 12 to 13 gallons up there, top it off when I get there and I will burn 21 or more gallons coming back.
Last fall I was running that same route and buying diesel for $3.27 a gallon in some places.
Regular gas here is about $ 3.65 and non ethanol gas was $ 4.01.
Sucks big time for sure and it's only going higher.
Last fall I was running that same route and buying diesel for $3.27 a gallon in some places.
Regular gas here is about $ 3.65 and non ethanol gas was $ 4.01.
Sucks big time for sure and it's only going higher.
Truth.
I am going to do my best to save it. I have a new tank, sending unit, coils of 3/8 fuel line, an electric fuel pump and harness from Leroy himself. The aforementioned i.p. and injectors, timing set, harmonic balancer all on the shelf.
I love this old engine. If it's salvageable I will save it.
The 454 comment was a last resort kind of thing.
I recently retired so I'll have time now.
My wife hates my trucks, glad she doesn't know how much $$$ I've got stashed in parts!
I love this old engine. If it's salvageable I will save it.
The 454 comment was a last resort kind of thing.
I recently retired so I'll have time now.
My wife hates my trucks, glad she doesn't know how much $$$ I've got stashed in parts!
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
You are fortunate. My wife wont drive that CC LB in town, but, time to hit the road, she insists on driveing. She loves that old beast then.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Fueled at the Conoco station. On tje pump it says something about premium grade diesel. Suppose to be good to -18 degrees. I dont know if this is the equivalent to the CENEX Road Master fuel being it has that premium grade advertised. Guess I will try a search and see what I can find.
Oh yeah, cost per gallon was $3.89.9.
Oh yeah, cost per gallon was $3.89.9.
93detroit
Well-Known Member
Probly doesn't hurt having a refinery in Laurel!
93detroit
Well-Known Member
Just left work. Price went up .60 TODAY!!
I should have stayed for overtime so I could afford to fill up!
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Yup, that was why I decided to fuel the truck today. Have a Dr Appt in Billings come Monday. Didnt want to take a chance of the price of fuel jumping An arm and a leg in price before then.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Yeah, about a 170 miles to the west.
BIGR
Lucky To Be Here
What town was that in?
Havlock NC, home of Cherry Point MCAS.
BIGR
Lucky To Be Here
Your way down east for sure.