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99 obd2 pump troubles

B

blumpkin

idi expert
Messages
65
Reaction score
127
Location
Ontario
99 suburban 2wd
Truck starts excellent, pulls hard.
Problem is it will only run with ect unplugged. After a while of driving, it will shift into overdrive and the cruise works fine.
Plug in the ect warm and it over fuels and retards , it chugs and smokes really bad, and only way to keep it running is to give it slight throttle to raise rpm slightly, but clouds of smoke, by 2 footing it and slowly gaining speed/rpm it will clean up between 1500-1800 and then it runs fine but if the revs drop i.e coming to a stop it runs very badly again
P1214 is the code,.i tried to do the koko thing but it won't do it because it running so rough.

Thanks for any help
 
Searching on the code comes back with a range of needing to do a TDCO re-learn to possible issues with the stepper motor and possibly air in the fuel.


blumpkin said:
. . .P1214 is the code,.i tried to do the koko thing but it won't do it because it running so rough.
Click to expand...

IIRC, the computer will not execute the TDCO re-learn due to the code presence. So at the risk of insulting, clear the code and see what happens when the computer is not storing a code.

Given the apparent cause-and-effect with an electrical connection, am leaning toward a ground issue or bad sending unit.

Just to make sure we are on the same page, by unplugging the ECT, what exactly is going on? Am presuming this to mean that it is unplugging the engine coolant temperature sending unit, but which one; the one on the thermostat crossover, or the one above the #1 cylinder?
 
Even before tdco,
Replace your IP return line with clear tubing. It is 1/4” by 5” long, comes out the front of the IP. Start it and watch for trail of bubbles which would indicat air in the system.
 
I have put on 330 miles (usa truck) on this truck now,. It really is a good worker. Has plenty of power etc, and starts really well. Just takes a while to warm up before overdrive works, and idles a little fast.
The sensor i unplugged is up top engine coolant sensor.
I don't have access to a machine to check the TDCO timing. I live north of toronto ontario and i don't know any place that does the timing check.
I do have a code reader than can turn off the cel.
What would make it mess up its tdco timing?

Thanks for the replies and help

I'm pretty darn sure it doesn't have air coming into the fuel, it starts and drives too good.
 
If it is the crankshaft position sensor you can unplug it and try and start it. It will take quite a bit more cranking than normal and when it starts it will be in limp mode but should run smoothly and normally. It will be running on the optical sensor. You can also do the reverse and unplug the optical sensor to check the operation of the crankshaft position sensor (which it will be running on).
 
Leroy Diesel also has a nice package for a very reasonable price.[/QUOTE said:
That looks veey interesting but way out of my budget by the time i ship it to canada and pay duties and the exchange rate on the usd. We figure it will cost us almost double.

Thanks

AK driver i will try unplugging things,
Click to expand...
 
Thank you AK driver,. I unplugged the crank sensor, and after a good long crank it fired up and runs really good!!
No more fast idle,.all 4 gears and lockup! But no cruise,.
Seems to have plenty of power,
So would you think the crank sensor is no good?
 
After changing the sensor, first thing i noticed was the reduced cranking time,.
I cleared the codes, as soon as it got warm i have the same trouble,. I tried the koko sequence but again it varied rpm and sounded like a big cam alky motor then stalled. So all the aggravation of loosening off the accessory bracket and fishing the crank sensor wires up to the plug was all for nothing,. So it's unplugged again.
I think one of the wires must be shorted to ground? Truck runs fine has plenty of power,. Pita long crank times are embarrassing :)
 
I don't think the brand of sensor made any difference in this case,.as the symptoms are still the same,.But its a Bosch.
I'm not sure how to unplug the OS yet,.,
and not sure why you think i need to?
 
If you plug in the cps and unplug the optic sensor, then try starting and running truck, it will verify the cps is working or not.
And there has been bad history of failures of many sensors, even new- thats why we all say get the AC Delco- they have highest sucess rate.

You need to know that both are working properly before going to the next step id diagnostics. People spend thousands when sometimes less than a hundred can fix the problem.

The electrical plug on top of the ip
 
Paveltolz said:
Attached document should help ID the various parts referenced on the Injection Pump.
Click to expand...
Thankyou everybody for your help, good info, it looks as iff i have to disassemble the air intake pipe to get at it,. I have been busy, so i've been putting up with the long crank times.
This truck runs and drives so nicely
I have been trying to understand just how the cp sensor works, its a hall effect sensor, what i can't figure is does it interrupt constant 5v going to ecm or does it switch on 5v to ecm as needed.
Truck starts pretty good but needs just a touch of throttle when stone cold to kick in the advance,. (22f) here.
 
I'm still flummoxed by this problem,.. i,ve put 1500+ miles on it with cps disconnected. Again i hooked everything back up, cleared the codes. It will start after 2 turns, even at 20f temps, and will drive great right up until ecm sees 170f, then it goes into retard mode. I'm thinking easiest thing for me is to put a switch in 5v signal to cps. Let it start then switch cps off. I don't like not having cruise tho. She's still starting so drive on.
 
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