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Leaking Valve Cover

Big T

Big T

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A couple weeks back I pulled and repealed the leaking driver's side valve cover. It's leaking again at the bottom rear corner.

I followed instructions that were posted here, but the job was not easy. I had to disconect and lift (bend) the injector lines and remove their supporting brackets. Even then, could not get a clean shot to install it. Black silicon bead on the cover and it undoubtedly got wiped away while trying to the POS in place. So it needs to be redone and I'm looking for input and suggestions to get it right this time. Should I put the silicon on the head side?
 
Silicone may be the culprit, it is slick and stays slippery.. this time use permatex "the right stuff", clean the valve cover, put a wide thick bead... let sit 30 minutes then install, only snug the bolts by hand and don't squeeze the stuff out, next day snug the bolts....

edit.... you should apply a bead on the head at the rear where you might wipe some off the cover during installing...
 
Disconnect and bend lines??
No. Do it all the way. Do it once. Remove the intake. Remove the lines. Pull the cover off and clean everything using a small ballpien hammer and edge of steel table & dulled chisel ensure the valve cover flange is flat all the way around. Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner. Apply 1/4" bead on valve cover and install within 5 minutes before it dries. I have NEVER had a leak in hundreds of engines built because I do it right the first time. It is always faster than doing it again and again.
Consider changing rocker buttons while you are there, rocker buttons fail before properly use right stuff.

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/85224.pdf
 
I used Permatex black. Do not have a steel table but used a 2 x 4. I did not let it set. I cleaned the hell out of both the cover and the head sealing surface using brake cleaner. Spent over an hour cleaning.

Removing the intake and lines seems like a full day job?
 
I have had great success using Permatex's spray-on gasket adhesive on the valve cover flange and one side of the gasket. Wait till tacky, position the gasket on the valve cover, now it will NOT move at all when the valve cover is flipped over to drop on the head (nor will it leak as the adhesive is also a sealer). Use a bead of "The Right Stuff" on the head flange and you're good to go. Haven't had one leak doing it that way yet on SBC, Mopar, Nissan, Toyota or 6.5 valve covers.

Like Will said, it IS critical to make sure that the cover flange is perfectly flat and level and the embossed bead intact. You also may consider using the bars like on performance SCB that go under the valve cover bolts and spread the clamping force out along the cover's flange a couple of inches each way, too.
 
So, my dilemma was that I wanted to use the truck on a couple week trip starting Wednesday or Thursday of this week. I have accepted a postion with the Federal Reserve Bank of San Francisco, based out of their LA Branch. Position is on their large bank supervisory team and start date is 5/23. Wanted to use the Burb for some camping while we fly fish the West. Now it sounds like this job is more involved and we'll end up taking the 4Runner.

Does the intake manifold need gaskets? Where do I get new or replacement buttons?
 
I had a SBC once that I couldn't get the covers to seal even with aluminum covers. I had to pull the heads once and discovered the cast surface had a 1/4" variation on the head. Had it milled flat and no more issues
 
Check the valve cover for cracks. Then check the OPS threads for a leak as I had a leak on a 350 that turned out to be the OPS showing up on the valve covers. That 350 also had a crack in the valve cover so more than 1 oil leak.

It's not that bad of a job pulling the intake. The injection pump lines are the hard part with a crow's foot.
 
Mr1948 sealed power from Rockauto 0.63 ea. X16 ea for entire engine. Save 5% with discount. Then shipping.

Does Leroy sell them?
 
Not that I can find. Used to be. Some people tap threads into the rod and use Allen bolts brass guides with lockitite, but that's another project all together. I've seen plastic buttons go 300,000, or some fail in 100,000. Luck of the draw.
 
Will L. said:
Not that I can find. Used to be. Some people tap threads into the rod and use Allen bolts brass guides with lockitite, but that's another project all together. I've seen plastic buttons go 300,000, or some fail in 100,000. Luck of the draw.
Click to expand...

I ordered gaskets and buttons from Rockauto. Unlikely they will arrive in time. Looks like were taking the 4Runner, which will need new tires in about 5K miles. Thinking I will just put new Coopers on now.
 
I soaked the area with purple engine degreaser and went and watched Utah's spring football game. Afterwards I hit it with the pressure washer which cleaned it all up. Then we drove up to Big Bear for the night.

Here's a pic of the fresh blood trail.....everything in that area from the oil cooler line fittings to the oil filter adaptor were soaked in oil before I cleaned it. There was a fresh blood trail coming from the lower rear corner of the valve cover and fresh oil dripping off the u-joint on the front drive shaft.
 

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Will L. said:
Disconnect and bend lines??
No. Do it all the way. Do it once. Remove the intake. Remove the lines. Pull the cover off and clean everything using a small ballpien hammer and edge of steel table & dulled chisel ensure the valve cover flange is flat all the way around. Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner. Apply 1/4" bead on valve cover and install within 5 minutes before it dries. I have NEVER had a leak in hundreds of engines built because I do it right the first time. It is always faster than doing it again and again.
Consider changing rocker buttons while you are there, rocker buttons fail before properly use right stuff.

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/85224.pdf
Click to expand...
Like Will said change those "rocker buttons" great advice!
 
Will L. said:
Not that I can find. Used to be. Some people tap threads into the rod and use Allen bolts brass guides with lockitite, but that's another project all together. I've seen plastic buttons go 300,000, or some fail in 100,000. Luck of the draw.
Click to expand...
I had one go and did all of them some years ago the big pain was that the valve covers got bent to hell by removing them they were glued rock solid I spent the better part of a half day reforming and squaring them........
 
FellowTraveler said:
I had one go and did all of them some years ago the big pain was that the valve covers got bent to hell by removing them they were glued rock solid I spent the better part of a half day reforming and squaring them........
Click to expand...

I'm resolved to replacing all the buttons. I bent the valve cover a little on the top side when I went to pry it off. I flattened it using a mallet and a pieced of wood. I will get a couple pieces of steel to do this the next time. It's not leaking from the top side.

I see on Rockauto they have cork/rubber valve cover gaskets for the 6.5. So, why not use those? Always had excellent results using those on air cooled VW engines.
 
The bolt spread pattern on these valve covers suck. That's why I don't run the gaskets- they still leak with them unless you use enough goo to glue them to bothe surfaces, now it requires more sealant, and is harder to clean up. It still can bend up the valve covers removing them. In the end -more $, more time, and if the gasket slips... Guess what you get to do the following weekend.

I meant to swap all my buttons when I had my covers off a couple years ago, and forgot. Been kicking myself every since.
 
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